White balance in a RAW file is just metadata. Change it later. Nothing degrades. That is the whole advantage over JPEG, where the camera bakes colour into every pixel and heavy corrections pull the image apart. Get the balance right before you export, and you keep neutral colour from sensor to final file. Here is how the Kelvin scale works, why RAW gives you that freedom, and the practical steps to correct colour before you output a JPG.
Why RAW Allows White Balance Changes Without Loss
RAW sensor data arrives unprocessed. White balance sits alongside it as a set of instructions, metadata that tells the converter how to map the red, green and blue channels into a neutral picture. The original data stays untouched. Adjust the balance at any time. A JPEG, by contrast, has white balance locked into every pixel. Force a large correction and the software stretches or compresses colour channels. Banding appears. Posterisation sets in. Colours shift unnaturally.
The Kelvin Scale and Colour Balance
Colour balance is measured in Kelvin (K). Lower numbers give warmer, more orange light. Higher numbers shift cooler, toward blue. Common reference points:
- Daylight: around 5500K
- Tungsten light: around 3200K
- Candlelight: a few hundred Kelvin
- Overcast sky: a few thousand Kelvin
A Kelvin white balance chart helps you match the setting to the light source. Move the Temperature slider in a raw converter and you travel along this blue-yellow axis.
Temperature and Tint Controls
Raw converters give you two main controls. Temperature shifts the blue-yellow balance, cooling or warming the image. Tint adjusts the green-magenta axis. That second slider kills the sickly casts from fluorescent tubes and some LED sources. Together they fix most balance problems. A photo shot under fluorescent light often carries a greenish cast. Push the Tint slider toward magenta and it disappears.
Correct White Balance Before You Export a JPG
The Eyedropper Is Your First Move
Every raw converter includes a white balance eyedropper. Click it on a neutral grey or white area, a white wall, a grey card, a shirt. The software calculates the Temperature and Tint values that make that spot neutral and applies them across the whole image.
Manual Sliders When No Neutral Exists
No neutral area? Go straight to the Temperature and Tint sliders. Set Temperature to match the light source: 5500K for daylight, 3200K for tungsten. Then nudge Tint until skin tones or other known colours read as natural.
Grey Card for Mixed Light
Photograph a grey card in the same light as your subject and you hold a perfect reference. Click the eyedropper on the card. Every frame from that setup gets a neutral balance. This is the most reliable method in mixed lighting.
RAW Versus JPEG the White Balance Divide
RAW lets you adjust white balance after the shot. No colour depth is lost. No smoothness sacrificed. The sensor data remains intact and the converter simply reinterprets the metadata. JPEG is different. The camera applies white balance during processing and discards the raw data. Any later correction alters already limited colour information. Colour banding creeps in. Detail vanishes. Transitions turn ugly. Shoot RAW whenever you need white balance flexibility.
Mixed Lighting
Window light plus tungsten. You cannot fully neutralise it with one global white balance setting. The different colour balances in different parts of the scene remain. A global adjustment corrects only the overall cast. You have two options:
- Accept a compromise that looks natural on the main subject.
- Use local adjustments, if your converter supports them, to apply different balances to different areas.
For a single global correction, aim for a setting that makes the most important part of the image read as neutral. Other areas can keep a slight colour cast.
Fixing a Colour Cast in RAW
- Shoot with a grey card whenever you can, especially in tricky light.
- Use the eyedropper on a neutral area for a fast fix.
- Skin tones looking wrong? Nudge Tint slightly toward green or magenta.
- Save your adjusted RAW file as a lossless format such as TIFF before exporting to JPG. This preserves the corrected colours.
- Stuck? Start with a preset like "Daylight" or "Tungsten" and fine-tune from there.
Once corrections are locked in, export your final image as a JPG using a converter that handles the process cleanly.